My first introduction to fra diavolo came from my dad many years ago at a little restaurant in Yorktown. The name escapes me at the moment, but the building, which looks like a windmill, is still there on Crompond Rd. My dad would order the shrimp fra diavolo, and while the sauce was a bit too spicy for my kid palate, I remember all of us eagerly sopping up the extra sauce with bread. It was heavenly: garlicky, hot and infused with flavor from the shrimp.
My dad would love the Mega Mussels Linguini I ate last weekend in Long Beach. Some friends and I were at The Whale’s Tale, one of the many restaurants that dot Beech Ave, the main drag in town. It doesn’t look like much from the outside — kind of like your typical dive bar. Looks can be deceiving.
My friend Phoebe’s fiance Steve asked if I liked seafood.
“LOVE seafood,” I answered.
“The mussels linguini are awesome,” he said. “The sauce is spicy, kind of like a fra diavolo.”
Fra diavolo… Ding! Cue the Pavlov’s Dog reaction. That was easy – I had no more use for the menu.
But first, a cup of New England clam chowder. (And yes, it’s the middle of a hellaciously hot summer and I ordered chowder.)
As a snobby New Englander, I tend to look down on New Yorkers’ attempts at making our chowder, but I’ve gotta give props where props are due: this was excellent. It was chunky, the creaminess was spot-on, and the flavor of briny clams unmistakable.
And here’s the Mega Mussels Linguini (a very reasonable $14), which I requested to be “extra spicy.”
You can’t even see the linguini under that mountain of mussels, but it’s there, along with a tomato sauce that had a definite kick to it. Just right, not too much. The linguini itself was a hair overcooked; more than made up for though with that great sauce and the generous portion of mussels.
We had a basket of garlic bread on the table, and I used the last few pieces to scoop up the extra sauce.
Never mind that I was sweating now like I’d just run a race. No matter. If you’ve got to sweat a little for a spicy fra diavolo, then so be it.
The Whale’s Tale
916 W Beech St.
Long Beach, NY
516-432-9587


One Comment
1 Ron wrote:
Now you’ve got me wracking my brains. What the heck is the name of that windmill place?