The most noticeable difference between the Frank Pepe in Yonkers and the Frank Pepe in New Haven?  No wait.  When I visited my friend Veronica up in New Haven several months ago, we waited in line for a good 15 minutes before stepping in the door — and this was on a random weekday.

In Yonkers?  My friend Ron and I met today at 12:30pm — what you’d think would be the height of the lunch rush — and the place was practically empty. Where was everyone? Church? Sleeping?  By the time we left around 2, it was pretty much full, but it took some time.

That’s bonus points for Yonkers.

The coal oven looks identical to the one in New Haven.

Ron and I originally planned to split a large pie of half clam/ half olive, but were told that olives aren’t available as a topping — which is strange since there are kalamata olives in the salad… soooo… I think Ron put it best: “So olives are physically in the building.”  Just don’t ask for them on your pizza.

Our server also dissuaded us getting from a half clam, explaining that the juices would spill over and pollute the taste of the non-clam side.  Interesting.  No one told us that in New Haven when we ordered a half clam/ half sausage.

So we shared two small pies.  This was the spinach.

And a look at the blackened crust.

The clam pie.

Here’s my verdict: I’m giving the pizza edge to New Haven, for three reasons:

1) Less oily.

2) Better flavor balance (The Yonkers clam pie was saltier).

2) A slightly superior crust.  The New Haven crust had more character — still charred and crisp, but a hair thicker and with more chew.  It’s a subtle difference, but I noticed it. You can even see it in the pictures — the New Haven pie just looks better.

Keep in mind though, I’m only comparing Frank Pepe to itself; the Yonkers pies are still delicious.  I love this style of pizza, and Ron and I finished every last slice with gusto.

And we didn’t have to wait!

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
1955 Central Ave.
Yonkers, NY
914-961-8284