When I was 25, my cooking skills had progressed beyond “rudimentary” to “functional.” I’d acquired a few cookbooks and kitchen essentials, while developing enough technique to feed myself. But I was a slave to recipes and measuring cups. Had you asked me to be creative or wing it, my head would have exploded. Seemed to me that to become an exceptional cook required years of experience and seasoning (no pun intended).
Maybe that explains why I’m impressed by young chefs who exhibit a cooking maturity beyond their years. (Remember Kevin from this past season of Top Chef? Dude was 26!)
I attended a chef’s tasting dinner last week at Morello Bistro; when the restaurant’s new Executive Chef, Mark Medina-Rios, introduced himself to our table, I thought, Whoaaa, that guy’s young! He is. He’s 25. And I’m impressed. Not just because he’s an accomplished chef, but because he’s got the necessary chops to shape a menu and run a kitchen in a town (Greenwich, CT) where I imagine the diners are incredibly food savvy and armed with high expectations.
Morello is certainly an atmospheric space to have a meal. The building, once a bank, is an historical landmark; the design of the interior with vaulted ceilings, columns and mezzanines, is gorgeous. My pictures don’t do it justice.
Chef Medina-Rios explained the night’s dishes to us and told us a little bit about the restaurant’s Italian–Mediterranean influenced and seasonal menu.
Then it was time to eat.
Antipasto
We were started off with whipped ricotta with honey-balsamic dressing and grilled cibatta. I was starving and dove into it before remembering to take a picture. Thus, the messiness.
Primo
A nicely acidic and meaty Octopus Calabrese.
Secondo
Porchetta with pickled red onions and pine nuts.
In a demonstration of my stupidity, I wondered aloud, “What kind of meat is on top? It tastes like turkey.” I’d forgotten what we eating… porchetta, which is slow-roasted, seasoned pork. I’m an idiot.
Pasta
Next, homemade mushroom ravioli.
Great bite to these. I finished one, got lost in conversation with my tablemates, turned back, and my plate was gone! The server must have thought I was finished. So sadly, I missed out on the second ravioli.
Pesce
Swordfish on a tomato caper sauce with white anchovies and cipollini onion.
Carne
Everything led up to this highlight, the lamb.
I waffle on lamb – sometimes I find it too gamey; at other times, as in this case, the meat has a pure, clean flavor to it, and I love it. This lamb had been had been marinated in thyme, rosemary and garlic and roasted to a perfect medium-rare.
Dolce
For dessert, warm bomboloni arrived with a side of chocolate sauce. If you read my Mima Vinoteca post, you know how I feel about these things. Balls of fried dough are firmly in my wheelhouse. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to finish a meal.
Chef Medina-Rios came by one more time, and we thanked and congratulated him for a terrific tasting dinner. Naturally, we asked about his age, which I’m sure he’s getting sick of. Also found out he’s from London and has been in the states and at Morello Bistro, for seven months.
A New Executive Chef at Morello Bistro
When I was 25, my cooking skills had progressed beyond “rudimentary” to “functional.” I’d acquired a few cookbooks and kitchen essentials, while developing enough technique to feed myself. But I was a slave to recipes and measuring cups. Had you asked me to be creative or wing it, my head would have exploded. Seemed to me that to become an exceptional cook required years of experience and seasoning (no pun intended).
Maybe that explains why I’m impressed by young chefs who exhibit a cooking maturity beyond their years. (Remember Kevin from this past season of Top Chef? Dude was 26!)
I attended a chef’s tasting dinner last week at Morello Bistro; when the restaurant’s new Executive Chef, Mark Medina-Rios, introduced himself to our table, I thought, Whoaaa, that guy’s young! He is. He’s 25. And I’m impressed. Not just because he’s an accomplished chef, but because he’s got the necessary chops to shape a menu and run a kitchen in a town (Greenwich, CT) where I imagine the diners are incredibly food savvy and armed with high expectations.
Morello is certainly an atmospheric space to have a meal. The building, once a bank, is an historical landmark; the design of the interior with vaulted ceilings, columns and mezzanines, is gorgeous. My pictures don’t do it justice.
Chef Medina-Rios explained the night’s dishes to us and told us a little bit about the restaurant’s Italian–Mediterranean influenced and seasonal menu.
Then it was time to eat.
Antipasto
We were started off with whipped ricotta with honey-balsamic dressing and grilled cibatta. I was starving and dove into it before remembering to take a picture. Thus, the messiness.
Primo
A nicely acidic and meaty Octopus Calabrese.
Secondo
Porchetta with pickled red onions and pine nuts.
In a demonstration of my stupidity, I wondered aloud, “What kind of meat is on top? It tastes like turkey.” I’d forgotten what we eating… porchetta, which is slow-roasted, seasoned pork. I’m an idiot.
Pasta
Next, homemade mushroom ravioli.
Great bite to these. I finished one, got lost in conversation with my tablemates, turned back, and my plate was gone! The server must have thought I was finished. So sadly, I missed out on the second ravioli.
Pesce
Swordfish on a tomato caper sauce with white anchovies and cipollini onion.
Carne
Everything led up to this highlight, the lamb.
I waffle on lamb – sometimes I find it too gamey; at other times, as in this case, the meat has a pure, clean flavor to it, and I love it. This lamb had been had been marinated in thyme, rosemary and garlic and roasted to a perfect medium-rare.
Dolce
For dessert, warm bomboloni arrived with a side of chocolate sauce. If you read my Mima Vinoteca post, you know how I feel about these things. Balls of fried dough are firmly in my wheelhouse. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to finish a meal.
Chef Medina-Rios came by one more time, and we thanked and congratulated him for a terrific tasting dinner. Naturally, we asked about his age, which I’m sure he’s getting sick of. Also found out he’s from London and has been in the states and at Morello Bistro, for seven months.
Here’s wishing him well in his new venture!
Morello Bistro
253 Greenwich Ave.
Greenwich, CT
203-661-3443