When a movie comes out that I’m really looking forward to — one I’m certain is going to affect me in some way — I’ll avoid reading most of the reviews until after I’ve seen it. I like going into the theater with an open mind and drawing my own conclusions, rather than being swayed right off the bat by a positive or negative review.
What’s surprising is I don’t follow a similar pattern with restaurants. I read all the reviews when they come out; I just enjoy reading about food. The downside is that unintentionally, I’ve already formed an opinion in my head before sitting down at the table.
After all, when everyone pronounces a restaurant to be terrible, you can’t help but start off with a negative view (more realistically, you won’t eat there at all). Conversely, when everyone raves, you’re almost brainwashed into forming a similar opinion, because subconsciously you think you should.
Which brings us to the roundly praised eatery in Dobbs Ferry, The Cookery.
The reviews have been uh, shall we say, glowing. Julia Sexton at Westchester Magazine, Liz Johnson at Small Bites, Sharon at The Good Life — they’ve all reviewed The Cookery far more eloquently than I can (click on the links to read their reports). I don’t have much to add, except to say: they’re right. The place is damn good.
The food is deceptively straightforward — nothing mind-blowingly cutting edge or trendy — just quality ingredients, well balanced and bold flavors, and an attention to detail that makes you, as the customer, realize: you’re in capable hands. This is food as a warm embrace.
(A warm embrace for a chilly autumn night like tonight. It struck me how everything on the menu seemed perfectly suited for cold weather. Do they change the menu seasonally?)
We started with this lightly dressed arugula salad with prosciutto di Parma and smoked figs. The figs were intensely smoky and sweet. Dangerously tasty.
Crostini with fresh ricotta came lightly drizzled with honey and a dash of thyme. The ricotta was dreamily smooth, but not heavy.
Silky, soft meatballs in a garlicky pomadoro sauce — the chef’s grandmother’s recipe.
(Note: I couldn’t eat these without being reminded of Rocco DiSpirito on The Restaurant. Remember how his poor grandmother was stuck down in the basement rolling meatballs while he was upstairs schmoozing all the pretty girls? What an ass. But anyhow…)
A few people at the table ordered the dish everyone’s buzzing about: bechemel lasagna with mushrooms and ham. Apparently, it was hot — so hot they weren’t able to take a bite for several minutes. But they said it was delicious.
Pork osso bucco: a monstrous shank of ridiculously tender and rich meat, served on creamy polenta and topped with a sweet/savory apple mustard chutney.
My plate started like this…
And ended like this:
A man and his cleaned shank bone — that’s contentment. Had my positive vibes been influenced by all the reviews I’d read beforehand? Had I been brainwashed before eating a single bite? It’s hard to say. Doesn’t change the fact that I loved my meal at The Cookery, and cannot wait to go back.
GRADE: A
The Cookery
39 Chestnut St.
Dobbs Ferry, NY
914-305-2336
One Comment
1 Sharon wrote:
Thanks for the shout-out, Doug. Much appreciated.
Funny comparison to Rocco. And DiBari’s mom is actually stuck in the basement making all that delicious pasta at The Cookery! Unfortunately, DiBari doesn’t flirt with the pretty girls nearly enough. Guess he’s too busy running an ultra-successful restaurant.